Family and history of the Glocknerhof

Generations of farmers, squires and craftsmen lived from the rich yield of the mines and fields and the flourishing trade with Venice and Salzburg – but they also had an eye for the magnificent landscape, which they carefully tended.

The four wanderers

Protected and nestled between the mighty Tauern mountains to the north and the majestic Alps to the south flows the Drau River, which once and today not only provided abundant fish, but also woodworkers and rafters with work and bread. It has shaped the valley and its people.

Now, centuries-old traditions are being rediscovered: miners’ festivals, rafting days, markets, church days, pilgrimages and carnivals – partly responsible is the trend, in times of the Internet and globalization, to rediscover what is closest to us: home, regional development and appreciation of local culture.

There have already been several tourist departures here, around 1880 the first alpine clubs were founded, even before the 1st World War the first refuges were built. Big names recovered in the Drau Valley, at Weissensee and in the mountains of the Reisskofel and Kreuzeck groups. Artists, writers and painters like E.T. Compton.

Since the 60s, the Glocknerhof has focused on traditional hospitality, cordiality and closeness and strives to contribute to the preservation of culture and folklore. For decades, the house has offered guests and visitors alike an ambience that is typical of the region, with all its culinary specialties.

Adolf driving go-kart

 

Dear guests,
Whenever I am out and about or meet colleagues, I am asked how it was possible for such a large tourist business to develop in such an unknown little village as Berg im Drautal. It is not easy to give an answer to this. But I want to try.

Certainly, the region is not spoiled with such tourist attractions that would make it easy for a hotelier to sell his house well. Nevertheless, we have always been convinced that our sunny hillside location above the unobstructed Drau Valley can provide an essential foundation.

In addition, of course, the courage to take risks was already exceptionally pronounced in our parents’ generation. Confidence in the positive future of tourism has prevailed despite periodic economic crises. I just remember that the hotel was built in the early 70s during the oil shock.

It’s true, you sometimes feel like a prisoner of your business, there’s too little left for private things. But those who grow up in this profession know nothing else, live with it. The decisive factor is passion. With each new building block that is added, a life’s work can develop into a work of art.

I have one thing in common with the Glocknerhof: we both celebrated our 60th birthday in 2018 – and we both still feel really young! 🙂

Your Adolfo

Between Lienz and Spittal an der Drau, in the Drau Valley, a holiday resort rises above the valley floor, from whose flower-adorned balconies you can enjoy a magnificent view over the Drau Valley and the Gailtal Limestone Alps. The house peers down from a spacious clearing at the passing traveler and seems to hypnotically attract him, inviting him to linger.

Up here, a little bit on the mountain, but still not too far away, a small piece of agriculture has been transformed into a great piece of Carinthian hospitality, the first and leading holiday home in a region that is a real piece of Carinthia with its many charms and beauties.

Just outside the resort of Berg im Drautal, in a quiet and sunny location, the property, built up over the past five decades with great diligence and courage, is special in every respect: The rural architectural style, the outdoor areas maintained with attention to detail, floral decorations and gardens, whose products, salads and herbs make their way through the fine cuisine of the hotel, the farm with its animals.

It is not difficult to describe all this: For children and athletes an area to romp, for the young at heart a place to meet, but for everyone a lively place, a world that is varied and open.

The Glocknerhof is biological, if you will an ideal living space, a place for health and relaxation, a place for the senses. Yes, that is to a good extent also the secret of his success. From the sale of refined gourmet products, fruit, schnapps, smoked bacon and homemade bread, the business was once built and was able to develop on its own. Of course, these delicacies are still available for purchase at the hotel.

There are many beautiful and romantic places on earth, but only one Glocknerhof. Here, many fortunate factors have come together to form an all-around whole. The splendid location, the homely comfort, the homeliness, the proverbial good cuisine, the skilful hand of an innkeeper family and the rural tradition: all this contributes to feel good in the house and its surroundings.

Alfonso Meriano

The simple term “berg” (mountain) has been used to name a large number of localities since ancient times. In Carinthia alone, twelve settlements are called “Berg”. The name goes back to the Indo-Germanic root “Bhergh” and has the meaning “high, raised”. In the Bavarian language area, names ending in -berg meant “single settlement on a mountain” in the 8th to 11th centuries.

The charnel house of St. Michael in Berg

Berg im Drautal was first mentioned in a document in 1267 as “Perige”. The name of the village is also connected with the mining activity in the area. Since Roman times, mines existed at Draßnitz above Dellach, in the Gnoppnitz near Greifenburg and in the Jauken massif. The legend tells of miners from distant lands who settled here to mine for lead, silver, gold and other ores. The earliest finds are traces of a Roman road that led to the mining village of Gurina in the Gailtal Valley, known since pre-Celtic times. Parts of this road can still be seen today in the “Römersteig” along the southern slope of the Jaukengruppe. From the centuries of ore blessing, dilapidated tunnels, place names such as Schmelz and old house names remain as silent witnesses of the past.

The town gained its early importance mainly through the pilgrimage churches of St. Mary’s Birth and St. Athanasius and the charnel house of St. Michael. The eventful history of the village was marked by natural forces, wars and epidemics (numerous wayside shrines commemorate the Turkish invasions and the plague). The peasants, despite hardship and meager income, cultivated the land for their descendants.

Already around the middle of the last century, tourism began in the Upper Carinthian area, at that time still called “summer resort”, whereby of course the lakes proved to be a special attraction. Especially the city dwellers of the near and far surroundings were attracted to the countryside during the summer months.

Adolf and Hilde with tour guide in the 70s

However, larger travel movements were only made possible by the expansion of railroad lines in the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Due to the poor condition of the roads and the lack of suitable means of transport, transportation was almost exclusively reserved for carters.

Carinthia is not only in the present one of the Austrian provinces in which tourism is one of the main economic factors. Early on, people became aware of the special offer that the alpine landscape with its lakes and watercourses represents in terms of recreational value and tourist demand.

For the time being, however, it was primarily the summer that was in demand on the part of the guests. The winter season – characterized by the only later development of winter sports, which in most cases originated from work processes, but also the poor possibilities of heating and thus the lack of comfort – became topical as a recreational period only in our century.

However, what is the best tourist offer, what is the use of the most excellent natural conditions, if none of the guests knows what is offered here and no one knows how to reach the region? For this reason, even in the early days of Carinthian tourism, it was essential to promote the offers, to bring them to the customer.

From the last quarter of the 19th century an essential prerequisite was created especially for the upper Drau valley, which caused an upswing as a summer resort area. From November 20, 1871 the Südbahn (south line), the railroad line between Villach and Franzensfeste was opened after only three years of planning and construction.

Intended primarily for freight traffic within the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy, the railroad was at the same time and subsequently an immensely advantageous development opportunity for the Drau Valley compared to other summer resort regions, which was also used.

“Central Station” 1960: Adolf says goodbye to his guests

The railroad was certainly an achievement, as can also be seen for Carinthia as a whole due to the initiatives started in that period, which can be seen as an essential initial spark with regard to the emerging tourism.

Efforts to attract the holidayswere increasingly forced. One of the most important sources that allow us today to understand the tourist offer at the end of the 19th century is at the same time an important testimony to the fact that already at that time advertising and guest services played an important role. In 1883, and subsequently every year in an edited version, the “Kärntner Verein” in Klagenfurt published a brochure entitled “Kärntens Sommer-Aufenthaltsorte” (Carinthia Summer Resorts), which saw itself as a guide primarily for guests and contained the most important, touristically interesting information about Carinthian places.

The directory was arranged according to the political districts of Carinthia and included information such as judicial district, local municipality, nearest post office, railroad and telegraph station, and altitude. In addition, accommodation offers, sights, hiking trails, mountain tours and scenic features were also mentioned.

In the introduction, all important railroad connections and travel routes to Carinthia have been listed in detail to make it easier for guests to reach their destinations. Already at that time the Carinthian lakes were treated as a main tourist attraction. But there were also roads that “thanks to good maintenance and the excellent gravel material … were particularly suitable for cycling”.

In the Upper Drau Valley, fishing and hunting were the main leisure activities offered, in addition to hiking and mountain tours. Just as today, of course, were promoted sights of cultural history and nature.

The fact that tourism began to play a role around the turn of the century not only at the Carinthian lakes, but had also long since penetrated into the other regions, is shown by the fact alone that in 1891 there were at least 250 guest beds available between Steinfeld and Oberdrauburg, of which 80 were multi-bed rooms and 90 were “ladies'” or “gentlemen’s” rooms.

Of course, these figures do not provide any information on capacity utilization. However, these figures are a remarkable testimony to the fact that in many places people already knew exactly how to assess the growing importance of tourism as an economic factor.

The founding fathers Jakob, Philipp, Baptist and Alexander Seywald probably never imagined that no stone would be left unturned on the former Zametterhof. They had come as farmers, carters, butchers and flying merchants from Upper Austria and Salzburg to the Carinthian Lesachtal in the 17th century and from there migrated on to the Drau Valley. In Berg they acquired a small farm in 1830 and with hard work brought it to modest prosperity.

When father Adolf had the idea to build a boarding house in this small unknown place, he was more smiled at than admired. Because the risk of failure was great. Far and wide no lake, no winter sports center.

The Zametterhof before the first summer season in 1957

 

The Zametterhof

For the aspiring young entrepreneur, there was no reason for doubt: He relied on the growing crowd of guests who drove through the Carinthian countryside in the summer, on the magnificent view, the beautiful location of the farm and the tradition of summer retreats in Berg, which reached back to the 1920s.

Adolf felt the irrepressible will to create something lasting. He had developed his penchant for planning and building since childhood. He was an enthusiastic calculator even as an elementary school student and spent hours thinking about how to increase his future farm inheritance. There was plenty of time anyway, since he had to spend the long summers herding sheep on the mountain pastures. Still, the plans seemed a bit daring without training and support. Then came the saving thought: walk the path together with a woman.

Hard to believe, but it’s true. After he had brought his Hilde home after a long courtship – wistfully he remembers: “We still got married by the kerosene lamp” – the young family began intensive marketing of apples, pears, plum brandy, bacon and house sausages. First in the Drau Valley, then at Weissensee, by bicycle, horse and ladder wagon. For better or for worse, things soon got too slow for Adolf, as word of his extra-good quality goods spread like wildfire across the country, a motorcycle was needed.

Sometime then in a cold winter night, it snowed quietly from the sky, he made the decision to build on his beloved Hoamatl a guesthouse with 40 beds. No one could quite imagine how he would manage this and by what means. But his irrepressible entrepreneurial spirit got the better of him, so that the very next day he wrote to an architect in Villach, asking him to take a look at the matter, that he wanted to build a boarding house, that there was enough wood, but that he needed a decent architect.

He came in spring, even with his own car; father Adolf just in the middle of work grafting the fruit trees. “Acha, oh well,” he mused, not exactly impressed, as he looked over the grounds, yard, and surroundings. “And you really want to build a boarding house here?” he asked incredulously, once again reassuring himself of the uniqueness of the project. Father Adolf joyfully shook the man’s hands and, gesticulating vigorously, explained his half-baked plan. The architect, for his part, inquiring about available cash, soon politely thanked him for the trust placed in him and said goodbye – forever, as it soon turned out. Adolf stood there, under his fruit trees, gawking at the roaring vehicle and decided, “Now more than ever!”

Seywald family 1957: The parents Adolf and Hilde with Klaus and Erika.

Luck stayed with him, together with two architecture students a first project was worked out, even if only on paper. However, the authorities did not have much sympathy for this. The two young fantasists had planned a sanatorium building without a roof truss, which infuriated the conservative officials. The project, which apparently did not fit into the landscape, had meanwhile swallowed 6000 shillings. Adolf therefore had no choice but to double his production of fruit, ham and schnapps, which he succeeded in doing. As the bacon farmer of Upper Carinthia, he soon became known as far as Kitzbühel and Badgastein, and the Grandhotel Bellevue praised his wares.

At the third attempt, with another revised plan, a bribery affair that came about in “pure self-defense” (Adolf donated a whole side of bacon with the associated house fire to the then head of the building commission after a reschen binge at four o’clock in the morning) and the aforementioned remaining hundred shillings, it finally went to work in the spring of 1958. The Leit’n below the farm was flattened and built on with the first Glocknerhof. It was a simple guesthouse without central heating and balconies, but the first house with running hot water in the Drau Valley.

Sweets had also taken the fancy of the bar patrons. Dad had hung a bird’s nest in the old Glockner bar, from which lovers could take mint candies. The music box played around the clock the schmaltzy catchy tunes of the time, the Flippers or the Bambis, and the parquet floor was strewn with kilos of snow white, so that overzealous dancers not infrequently fell on their noses.

We still use the slippery slope tick today when a dance is coming up. Then he spreads so much flour over the dance floor with the broom that the maids groan the next day. With the snow white the dancing leg simply swings more elegantly.

Steep duet of Hilde and Uncle Hansel, 1964

In the old Glocknerbar we also often sang around each other; one guest unpacked his new guitar, another sang along with the accordion. Those were beautiful hours when the whole pub, stimulated by the amateur artists, clapped in time. Guest cabaret is what it’s called today, and it’s still fun.

Roberto, in particular, has done a great job with this. It is already part of the inventory of the Glocknerhof. With his Meissner-Boys he played on the terrace as early as 1973, so loudly that the last mice took to their heels. In the meantime, he’s probably quieted down a bit, but entertaining nonetheless.

Music is in our family’s blood. Grandfather Paul conducted the Berger Trachtenkapelle, half of the relatives are in the church choir or the men’s singing society, every child learned at least one instrument. Today it is Adolf, Wilfried and Klaus, who also enjoy playing music in front of an audience. Adolf’s trumpet skills are well known in the area.

For a few years the children even played in their own band, which was formed at a suckling pig barbecue. The band was then unceremoniously christened “Sauband”, even though it didn’t sound that bad. Successors to this already historic band are the Wallner Boys, with whom Adolf also performs cabaret pieces time and again.

In the Glocknerhof there were sometimes also larger entertainment spectacles. Once we had a pageant where almost 1000 people came from out of town. Celebrities like Albano and Romina Power have stayed here, Telly Salavas, Elliott Gould, Timothy Dalton and Klaus Kinski. But quite honestly, such notoriety tends to bring unrest into the house. The guests have more to gain from a pleasant evening at home or a play party for the children.

It is interesting to see how our offer has developed. From the beginning, the focus was on family and recreational holidays, later the many sports opportunities and health were added. Bathing has always had significance. When we built the heated outdoor swimming pool in 1967, we were the first in all of Upper Carinthia, just as we were later with the indoor pool in 1973. Dad was really proud of these attractions.

The sports offer developed from the need to offer more variety to the guests. Since the natural conditions around the house did not allow for traditional sports such as alpine skiing and sailing, other fields of activity had to be found: such as cross-country skiing and ice skating in winter, karting, cycling, fishing, archery, model flying and tennis in summer.

“For Dad, agriculture was the basis for all success. He was always concerned with preserving and increasing the property. He’s right. You can only do business sensibly if you know where you stand. Therefore, not only have we expanded the house in these 50 years, but we have also adapted agricultural production to the possibilities.”

Mama Hilde in vegetable garden, 2013

When I think of all the things we produced in the 1950s, I still get dizzy today. Starting with flax, all kinds of vegetables and cereals, and ending with potato cultivation, Dad tried everything. We spent our honeymoon harvesting. However, over the years, cultivation paid off less and less, and we also lacked the time.

From his father, Dad inherited the passion for fruit growing and gardens. Planting small trees, growing vegetables and salads, growing his own herbs, growing roses: not only the economic return was important to him, but also the beauty of nature around the house, flower arranging and environmental protection.

While the importance of agriculture declined, animal husbandry steadily gained in importance. Meat and sausage products are still produced in-house, as are dairy products, ice cream and the daily freshly laid eggs. We also bake the bread ourselves, distill the schnapps in our own house winery and smoke our own bacon. Eating should be a healthy experience.

Most guests are not interested in this work, but there are always some who lend a hand when there is something to be done. It was not uncommon for a master butcher from the far north to help with the butchering and explain a new type of sausage or aspic to us. Others wanted to sweat along with the haymaking or learn how to bake bread,” Hilde Seywald in the early 1990s.

How nice it would be if it were still so easy to advertise today. I remember how we placed a two-column ad in the Berliner Morgenpost in the early 1960s and received so many inquiries the following week that the entire summer was booked. Stacks of mail came in, as if we had held a contest.

Advertised initially without a picture of the house and without a brochure. Then, when guests were asked why their choice fell on the Glocknerhof in particular, the answer was: “You’ve written so nicely by hand, and whoever goes to so much trouble is sure to have time for the guests.” The trust then paid off.

Postcard view of the Pension Glocknerhof, 1965

The best advertising was, of course, word of mouth, and also the most important. A satisfied guest was always worth more than expensive pages of newspaper advertising. Those who liked it once came again or at least sent us relatives, friends or acquaintances. Many then met at home and exchanged their holidaysthere.

Dad was a natural at public relations in the first place. He was always up for a spectacle, and he had the bush drums on his side right away. Not only that he did not let anyone leave the Glocknerhof before they had made a solemn promise to come back. He also made good on his threats and visited the guests at home in Berlin and Hamburg.

In the 70s Adolf and Wilfried took over advertising and sales. Everything the two learned in hotel management school was immediately tried out in practice, whether it was Salzburg dumplings, or the right place setting, conversation in French, or even advertising and sales: e.g. brochures, menus, ice cream menus.

Dad and I were happy about that. We could use strong support, as we certainly could not have kept up on our own. In fact, advertising and sales became more difficult with each passing year, as the offer on the tourist market increased. It would be presumptuous to say that we have not felt the increasing competition.

In addition, guests have to be re-advertised every year because, unlike in the past, they change their holidaysevery year and do not automatically bring new guests. This makes things doubly difficult, because you have to advertise again and again. You can’t rely on random walk-in guests anymore,” Hilde Seywald explained in the 1990s.

He has spent his life in the best way,
who has made most people happy.
Elisabeth Geyer, June 1965 Gustav Adolf Parish, Munich-Kamersdorf

When it swelled in the Drau
we quickly changed the construction.
To the most beautiful spot in the valley
was our choice.
Here were our holidays
more beautiful even than ever before.
They disappeared much too quickly,
seemed like seconds.
Kutzki family from Berlin Berg im Drautal, September 15, 1965
(after the flood disaster)

Adolf with guests in Heiligenblut, 1960

The landlady and the husband,
they had their torment every day,
to stuff the big “mouths” –
but in the evening there was a good drop.
Schwarz family from Munich, June 9, 1967

There is a house in Carinthia
well known to most people.
It is very beautifully situated on Bergeshöh’,
so it says; in all tranquility.
Haarmann family, September 2, 1967

5 years ago in August we were 4
and also had quarters in the Glocknerhof.
We were so happy and also so glad
and a good 9 months later? So so?!!
The girl’s years are now four
and this time all 5 of us are here.
When we 2 enjoy mountains and blossoms
grandma + grandpa will look after our Elke*.
Family Gerhard Schreiber, July 23, 1968 * Short name for A Dear Carinthian Memory

Wonderful, Wonderful
lies the Glocknerhof for true.
The Rastatt, September 1968

Ouch, it’s enormous,
our waist lacks shape.
The Rastatt, September 1968

Not to mention the lovely livestock,
the pigs and the cow.
One of them has done it to us,
all night long she makes moo moo,
robs us of our well-deserved rest.
However, it can not complain us,
next year we return.
The Rastatt, September 1968

We did feel quite comfortable in the water,
but even better we drank alcohol in the bar.
The two “booze goats” Martin and Bernd, June 1969

The fourteenth time we were here this year,
and it was as always – a wonderful place to stay.
Günther and Rosemarie Grothe from Berlin, June 1970

The landlady always has a smile,
the innkeeper, he takes care of the Glocknerbad.
The food is delicious and fabulous,
the holidays so once again very big.
Family Hermann Otto ans Hannover, June 1970

The long drive was worth it
we were the first to occupy the new hotel.
14 busy hands served us,
and we heard a lot about art.
Astrid Johannsen from Kiel, April 30, 1973 Premiere guest at the new Hotel Glocknerhof

Who once knows this place,
I hard only separates from the house;
so wish you on all paths of life
me, the owners “God’s blessing”.
Martha Richter from Mödling, January 1975

His call resounds far and wide across the land
thanks to the helpers at the Glocknerhof.
Reverend Maximilian C. Weiher von Heyl zu Herrnsheim, 1975

Guest in this house,
to be at this table,
is grateful and
endearing at the same time.
We will be only too happy to come back.
Friedel and Gretel Harnehausen/Fuchs, February 1979

Farewell, Reisskofel, Spitzkofel and Jauken you –
We have to go to Kassel today.
Uffelmann family, March 1979

The friendly tone in this house
also sometimes (almost) compensates for the missing partner.
Werner Posselt from Würzburg, March 1979

Before sun – high pleasure
After snow – and witch’s foot
nevertheless it was beautiful
God willing, there will also be a reunion.
Willy Fleischmann from Kirchberg, April 1979

One was anxious with all levers,
us up to the best of our ability.
Hamburg Friends of Nature, June 1980

Peace to the house,
Joy to the guest,
and greetings to the wanderer,
that passes.
Emmy and Otto Fremder from Kassel, April 1982

It was quite swell and so beautiful, we say “thank you” and goodbye.
Hilde Ullmann from Vellmar, January 1981

Whether summer, winter,
Springtime our saying is:
“Always ready!” During a ride into Berg
we certainly won’t say no.
Biggi B. and Petra F. from Solingen, March 1983

The meadow blossoms and the spicy scent of fir,
is a special treat for us city dwellers.
Seniors’ Group Berlin-Tempelhof, June 1983

From the balcony a panoramic view,
like a painting…
The gray mice Alice Schmidt & Co

A person who takes up quarters in the Glocknerhof,
he has hit the mark excellently here.
ÖTV Hamburg, September 1983

Music and dance and yodelling songs
and in addition the white lilac
here is also the dirndl dress at home
a feast for the eyes for all of us.
L. Weikel from Switzerland, June 1985

Ce séjour était trop court
pour admirer ce magnifique paysage.
Walter family from Paris, April 1985

Who wants to understand Carantania,
should read with the soul
and listen with the heart.
Estella, February 1986

And when you finally get home,
you can always expect a juicy treat for the palate.
Günther family from Frankfurt, Easter 1986

The Drau Valley is in the sunshine,
here you just have to be happy.
The Glocknerhof has spoiled us,
has brightened up the holidaysus.
Fam. Wittke and Putzig, January 1987

Ik heb mijn hart verpand
aan dit hele mooie Land.
Marike v.d. Marel from Holland, January 1987

I think we are the first Franks,
who thank the Glocknerhof.
Herbert and Angelika Schmitt from Waigolshausen/Ufr. 1987

Carinthia: a land where the earth talks
and the sky sings.
Ella 1987

The sun rises in the east,
but, significantly, in the West.
Sigi Maron (singer), 1987

Drie maal kwamen wy weder,
van alles hebben wy gegeten,
gedronken en geproefd,
Toch körnen wy nog eens weder,
A is het op de poef.
Kindt family – Kieldrecht, Belgium, August 1987

Fourth time here and always satisfied,
Where have all the good hours gone?
Fam. H. Dick from Bern, October 1987

8 années de suite à Berg et maintenant au Glocknerhof
Plus je viens, plus je decouvre ses joies.
Que dire d’autre que incroyable.

8 times in Berg and now in the Glocknerhof,
the more often I come,
the more I discover its delights.
What else can you say but “incredible”.
Jansiez and Theys families, February 1988

The food was good, the granny was great,
all in all – the holidays was great.
Fam. Buchkremer + Grandma, New Year 1989

… then followed days – beautiful –
it almost could not go better!
We had snow and the best sun,
Heart and stomach full of delight!
So beautiful – that’s what everyone thinks –
it was elsewhere in no case!
Brunsbüttel round, February 1989

We zyn here vandaag en
gaan de 5ste maart naar huis!
‘t was here heel gezellig,
en hopen hier nog vaak te körnen!
Diana v.t. Schip from Holland, March 1990

The Glocknerhof is quite certain,
a foretaste of paradise.
Michael Reininger, August 28, 1990

We spent here only one night
but at this place we were right!
Tom Jones, 1991

holidays at the Glocknerhof is top!
Your Erich Mielke, 1990/91

Wy zyn here al 4 zomers en 3 winters
geweest en we vinden het hier fantasthis!
Kelly, August 1991

Con governo o senza governo
noi “magnemiano” lo stesso.

With or without government,
we’ll be fine in a minute.
Tino, April 1992

 

The secretary of the Cardinal of San Marco and Patriarch of Aquileia, Paolo Santonino, together with the Bishop of Caorle, Pietro, toured the German territory of Carinthiain 1485 to reconsecrate the churches that had been burned by the Turks. In his travel diaries (from: Rudolf Egger, Santonino in Carinthia, Verlag Carinthia, 1978) Santonino reported on his experiences, but especially on the cooking skills of the Upper Carinthians:

Santonino’s culinary journey through Carinthia in the 15th century

 

October 3, 1485

The feast at Pittersberg Castle in Kötschach was rich in tame and wild fowl, quadrupeds, and among other things a squirrel in herb sauce was served.

 

October 5, 1485

Goldstein Castle near Mauthen. The first dish served at the bishop’s table was two young capons, fattened and stewed in their own juices. The second course was trout and grayling, similarly simmered, served in wide pans, without soup; by some they were enjoyed with herb vinegar. The third course was meat from birds that fly faster and animals that jump faster. Partridges and roasts of young chamois. Then was served a dish they call “Gepfeffertes” (something that was spiced with pepper), consisting of a lot of chamois meat. Hereupon came grayling and trout, longer than the earlier ones, swimming in a broth colored by spices.

The series continued other partridges, simmered in water, with forest chickens captured in the wild mountains of the area, preserved in a green herb sauce…. Finally, one of the servants brought a wide bowl of cabbage over a piece of bacon. Nevertheless, the appetite lost by the herb served was rekindled by the arrival of small doughnuts, which they called pastilles, doused with honey, and sour milk.

But the decision was made by pears of various kinds, some of amazing size, as well as apple of the best taste and beautifully colored. Finally, after two hours, we left the table, which was made even more pleasant by the excellent wines of various kinds served in silver goblets.

 

October 6, 1485

In the local inn in Oberdrauburg, no less than seven courses were served, including a dish of boiled sweet pears, which, served in a bowl, were finally mixed with butter and semi-sweet spices. There were also fish, precious and tasty, stewed in oil and boiled in water, three kinds of wine served in silver cups, for the first drink excellent Malvasia, then wine from Friuli and for dessert sweet, palatable Rebolio (white wine) also from Friuli.

 

October 7, 1485

In the same inn, our people feasted on a meal of seven courses. In the process, a double dish of dumplings was served, one prepared in cheese soup with onions and spices, the second with oil and hot spices. We were in a particular hurry with trout and grayling, with which we always did well in our experience. There was always someone pouring the Malvasia for the diners, especially the German clerics sitting at the table.

 

October 9, 1485

In Tristach the meal started with boiled tripe from the older calf, our trippa. After this dish should be drunk a sip of the best and unadulterated Rebolio, so that digestion is more rapid. Stewed capon and veal were served second, some roasted chicken third, and beef tenderloin at the same time with raw onion, which Germans like to eat in place of a herb sauce. To the fourth and last came various other dishes.

 

October 12, 1485

That day at the meal in Dölsach we had several courses, new to them was a dish of flour noodles cooked in milk and in fat soup, which everyone liked because it was tasty and sweet. In the evening, a sumptuous meal with numerous and excellent dishes was prepared for us at Lengberg Castle. Among other things were offered grayling, the piece weighing over two pounds, and other fish of a second genus, which they call eel rods, which comes along because they are considered more delicate than the garden rue; they are tastier than beautiful to look at.

Their tails resemble those of eels, cooked they have a black and blemished skin, but their meat is white and tasty. We also had excellent pancakes, some with sage leaves, others with small apples inside, sprinkled on the outside with sugar instead of salt. And they were so in accordance with all the requirements that hardly a piece remained, although they were offered as the penultimate course.

 

October 13, 1485

The excellent host served first: tripe of the older calf/ well prepared and seasoned with saffron; as a second course boiled fish, mixed only with rods, grayling and trout. As a third dish came – in some chickens and crows, which Italy does not know, and Schöpsernes on a spit. The fourth was cabbage in a bowl, topped with bacon and a wreath of house sausages. This dish was prepared more delicately than elsewhere and pleased almost everyone. This was followed by boiled chamois meat with chopped apples and onions on top and sprinkled with spices. In sixth place came in beef and excellent chicken in fat soup. The penultimate dish was meat soup with barley.

For dessert we had a large mild cheese, fresh nuts and sweet pears. In addition, there was beautifully shaped white bread, which in Tuscany is called buffetto, and white and red wine, equally exquisite in color and taste, supplied from the monastery of Rossatz.

 

October 14, 1485

On that day, the meal was held in the open air in the nearest village to the church of St. Francis. Chrysanth near Drauburg taken because the houses are low and furnished only for peasants. There were good fish, fried in the pan and boiled, as well as dumplings made of bread, which was first roasted on the fire and then soaked in a dip mixed with oil, and cabbage. We also did not have to do without good bread and wine.

 

October 16, 1485

We had a sumptuous meal near the parish church of St. Daniel near Mauthen, but we did not eat of all the dishes. The main pieces of food were as follows: first, wine soup with eggs and spices, in which buttered cookies floated; second, fat chicken boiled; third, fish without soup; fourth, roasted chicken with chamois loin; fifth, peppered meat of chamois and chicken stomachs; sixth, a fish in black broth, excessively mixed with spices. The fish was called Friul (leather carp) and weighed more than four pounds. It has a thick skin similar to that of the pig, could not compete with trout or ash; seventh doughnuts, baked in the pan and spread with stew; eighth turnips, boiled in milk and served in the bowl with bacon; ninth beef in its own fat soup; tenth and last pears, nuts and apples. When the procession of these aisles was completed, the bishop gave confirmation to the faithful and spent the rest of the day with this work.

 

October 23, 1485

In the house of the priest Hermagoras in Tröpolach we had first of all tripe of adult calf, cooked in wine; secondly chicken with a piece of beef, cooked in water; thirdly unusually large trout from the Weissensee, which lies between the rivers Dräu and Gail at the height of the Gutisperch (Gitschtal); fourthly we had cabbage with a piece of bacon; fifthly a wreath of roast chicken was served around a saddle of lamb; Sixth, not by itself, but by special order of the table leader, more trout of the best quality came, served on pieces of ice, sprinkled with almonds, grapes and spices. Seventh, we were delighted when more grapes came, similar to (Kraus) salad, seasoned with honey; for dessert, sweet pears, white and tender apples, fresh and sweet grapes, brought from the harvest in Italy, were not missing.

 

October 24, 1485

In the house of the noble Lord Andreas Meixner, the first course was a fat capon and another young chicken. The second fresh fish of the best kind, many and without tuna, among them did not swim, but lay peacefully a boiled turkey without soup and without spices except salt, it weighed three pounds and has, among other things, a liver of such good taste that I do not remember having received from fish anything tastier.

The third, several roast chickens with lamb loin; the fourth, eggs, poached in water, as they say, and then baked in a pan with butter and served in a bowl with sweet applesauce, to which saffron and a little vinegar were added. Fifth, more fish in soup that could be mistaken for trout.

The sixth was a peppered dish with chamois meat; the seventh was the most delicate pastry, chilled on snow or, better, covered with the best sugar; the eighth was cabbage with bacon, which could never be missing from such a feast. The ninth was a sweet mush, the tenth a quantity of pan-fried pork chops, the eleventh meat from fattened one-year-old lamb in its own juices, and for dessert mild cheese with pears, apples and reddish peaches, which had been picked shortly before in the garden of the noble host and were not much inferior to ours in taste and beauty. Moreover, the bread was snow-white and light, white wine and red wine in flower and color not to be despised.

 

October 25, 1485

We took the meal in the village of Sankt Lorenzen in the Gitschtal, situated at the foot of the mountain, in farmhouses, divided into two lots. There on our table were served: first, boiled chicken; second, excellent, equally boiled trout; third, fried chicken; fourth, cabbage with rancid bacon; fifth, peppered hot with chicken blood and pieces of chicken meat and chicken liver; sixth, beef with soup. At this meal we had beautiful white bread in a pleasing shape that resembles the buffet called honey cake of Florence. To this end, we drank wine from bowls and pewter vessels, as there was a lack of drinking utensils.

 

October 30, 1485

At Khünegg Castle near St. Michael were offered: first, roast chickens, partridges and saddle of lamb, second, boiled chickens in soup, third, fish from Lake Pressegg without soup, fourth, excellent cabbage with bacon, fifth, peppered, hot and soupy, with chicken necks, livers and feet, sixth, pancakes with sour apples, seventh, meat from young lamb in soup, eighth, barley in fat meat soup, ninth, apples, pears, cheese and green nuts, with snow-white bread and wine so clear that it could only be distinguished from water by its taste.

 

31 October 1485

At the meal there were Lenten foods, since we were on the eve of All Saints’ Day. Among other things, there were sour cherries, which they call sour cherries, cooked in wine, then mixed with honey and dressed. It is a pleasant food and, as they say, also a healthy one. We also had a honeycomb, from which we all greedily took.